Nikolaiviertel in person: Philipp Satzer and his restaurant “Julchen Hoppe”
Traditional German food in Berlin Mitte: rouladen, veal liver and much more – a restaurant on Rathausstraße serves up the popular German dishes with a generous helping of passion.
How did you get into cooking and how did you end up in the Nikolaiviertel?
I first started training as an automotive mechatronics technician, but I didn’t really feel comfortable with it and needed a change of plan. I had already cooked during my school days and always really enjoyed it. I then applied for a training position as a chef here in the Nikolaiviertel at Mutter Hoppe. After completing my training, I stayed at Mutter Hoppe for a year and then moved on, first to various restaurants in Berlin and then to Switzerland for four years. When I came back to Berlin in 2017, I happened to hear that this very restaurant was up for sale. Julchen Hoppe had already been around for 15 years at that point. I quickly decided to write a business plan and bought the business—I was 29 at the time.
How many people currently make up “Team Julchen”?
There are 13 employees, all permanent staff. It’s a great team, which means I don’t have to spend so much time in the kitchen myself and can focus on the “paperwork” instead. Speaking of which, we all hope that the VAT reduction for the restaurant business will finally come into effect at the turn of the year. That would help us a lot and make us more flexible, also in terms of paying our staff well. After all, we always want to invest in the restaurant and have just recently purchased new chairs and tables, plus a dishwasher and refrigerators.
No matter where you look in the restaurant, every area looks different…
Yes, we have three different areas or room themes: the “parlor,” “grandmother’s kitchen,” and the “fisherman’s room.” People just love these differently decorated areas.
Let’s talk about food: what are the favorites on your menu?
Schnitzel, pork knuckle, veal liver, beef roulade—the Berlin classics. I often notice that many tourists come to Germany to try these things, among other reasons. They don’t want international cuisine or fast food. There is nothing wrong with burgers and kebabs, but tourists from overseas in particular are curious about German cuisine and simply want to try the Haxe or Bulette they have heard or read about at home.
Traditional cuisine rather than trendy food—does this apply more to tourists or to locals?
Both, actually. When I’m out and about in my free time, I often hear many “old Berliners” say that there is “no traditional German cuisine left in the city.” Or the opinion that every main course now costs over 30 euros, neither of which is true. Then I often realize that they don’t even know the Nikolaiviertel, which I find really sad. So I like to give them the tip to visit us here – at the latest when they’re craving a tasty roulade…
There’s no need to reinvent the wheel…
True, but there are some almost forgotten dishes that are worth rediscovering. “Himmel und Erde” (Heaven and Earth), for example, which we now have on the menu: fried black pudding and fried liver sausage with mashed potatoes and apples. And that’s really quite rare. Or we combine popular items. We offer a Kutscherplatte (coachman’s platter): bockwurst, knacker sausage and meatball, all on one plate.
In Florida, you can find seafood samplers with various items everywhere you go. Fish, shrimp, a baked oyster, different dips…
Yes, that’s basically the idea: various Berlin classics on one plate – easy to order and great to try.
What many people associate with German cuisine is also the “ proper portion,” right?
Yes, absolutely, and honest, hearty cuisine, freshly prepared with high-quality ingredients. It’s simply about good value for money, and I think that’s true for me and many of my colleagues here in the Nikolaiviertel. Our schnitzel reaches the edge of the plate and comes with a generous serving of fried potatoes. Or our pork knuckle. It weighs about a kilo and sells for € 21.80 – so people certainly don’t leave here hungry.
Are you hungry for some traditional Berlin specialties? You can find the Julchen Hoppe restaurant here:
Rathausstraße 25 • 10178 Berlin
Website: julchenhoppe.de • E-Mail: julchen.hoppe@t-online.de • Phone: (030) 97 00 57 87